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Despite being a simple device, the fitting of the butt hinge can cause many problems to the inexperienced, so understanding hinges and how they work is important.

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They are still widely used on cupboards doors such as bathroom wall units or electric and gas meter cupboards. Despite being designed for use with 'lay-on' doors, and being able to open beyond 90 degrees, the single version is unsuitable for units that butt up to each other.
A similar concept to the concealed hinge is the cranked hinge. This type of hinge is made in two forms; single and double, it too is designed for use with 'lay-on' cabinet doors. They are quite strong in use, due mail to the way that they can be screwed onto the door and cabinet, not relying on a few screws to the edge of the door. In days gone by, the double cranked as pictured here on the left, was widely used on kitchen units, but as it lacks the sophistication of the concealed hinge special movement, and is visible when the cupboard door is closed, it is rarely seen in the modern kitchen.  The double action version of this hinge allows the door to open freely when situated up to an adjoining cupboard, made possible as the result of the pivoting point of the hinge being extended out to the thickness of the door rather than to the inside as with the single cranked type.

Rising Butt Hinge
Where the concealed hinge is far removed from the butt hinge, the rising butt hinge looks very similar even though it has a special movement. The rising butt hinge, which, as its name suggests, 'raises' the door up as it opens, which is particularly useful when a thick carpet needs to be cleared, or if the floor and door casing combination is either out plumb or out of level to each other.  The rising butt hinge consists of two separate parts; the leaf that is fitted to the door casing which has a spiral knuckle and an open ended pivot pin. The second flap is detachable from the first, and fixed to the door. As the door opens the leaf fitted to the door rides up the spiral knuckle rising the door progressively as it opens. Because of this arrangement, the rising butt hinges are handed 'left' and 'right', which should be kept in mind before purchase.  
Though the fitting of the rising butt hinge follows the same fitting procedure as the standard butt hinge, the door will require additional trimming so as to provide a suitable gap between the top inside corner of the door and the head of the door casing, so as to provide clearance for when the door rises.
To do this, measure 6mm down from the top inside corner of the door, and draw a diminishing line to the outside corner and the inside corner of the door from this mark as shown in the drawing. The white area (as illustrated) should then be planned off the door, working inwards. Because the amount removed is over the full width of the door, this makes it very much less noticeable, and the fact that the door has been trimmed on the inside edge means that the diminishing gap it will not be seen when the door is in the closed position.
If it is found that the door still comes into contact with the door casing after removing this amount, simply trim the door further by a small amounts in the same diminishing manner.

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