The DIY World
The Home of DIY and Home Improvement
Welcome to 'Projects' - learn how to do different jobs

Bookmark and Share

Want to fit a lock, don't know where to start? You have found the right page!

Home How To DIY Projects Features Security Electrics Tools Support Glossary of Terms Contact

Fitting Mortice Deadlock

Fitting The Striker Plate

Fitting the mortice lock into the door is only part of the lock fitting process because the striker plate which is fitted to the door frame, though a separate item, is an integral part of the lock design. One of its security features is that it has a 'box' as part of the plate in which the dead bolt of the lock enters into. In the event of an attempted forced entry where the door frame is cut out at this point to somehow force or cut the bolt, the box in which the bolt is located makes the bolt inaccessible. The fitting of this plate can in some respects be more difficult than fitting the lock itself due to the need of its accurate positioning. In this section, this will be explained, which hopefully will make the process as painless as possible. Fitting the striking plate can be a bit of a challenge, the door frame will need recessing for the striker plate and cut out to receive the box, but in addition to this, the position of the plate must be so that it is set in relation to the lock both vertically and horizontally. Failure to position this correctly would result in the repositioning the plate, and the inevitable making good of the door frame later.

To correctly mark the position of the striker plate, turn the key so that the locking bolt protrudes out of the lock, and close the door so that the bolt touches the doorframe. With the door held in this position, mark the position of the bolt onto the frame as in Fig 1.
Now that the position of the bolt has been established, both marks will need to be transferred from the face of the door frame round onto the rebated area using a square as shown in Fig 2.

Position the plate up against the frame so that the box lines up centrally to the two marks, and using a pencil, accurately mark the top and bottom of the plate. Remove the plate, and using a square, redefine these marks with two lines at right angles to the shoulder of the rebate as shown on the right.

At the beginning of this page it shows how to position the striking plate so that the locking bolt of the lock lines-up with the box of the plate (in height). At this point, it should be noted that the aperture of the box that receives the dead bolt is quite a bit wider than the bolt that it accommodates, and if the plate is not accurately installed, the door bolt will rattle within the box when the door is lock. With this in mind, the next stage details the positioning of the plate to ensure that this does not occur, and that the bolt not only enters the box, but also holds the door in position up to the shoulder of the rebate when locked. Because this position is not visible or accessible when the door is closed, it is not possible to simply mark its position on the frame, so it must therefore be calculated. Though there are a number of ways to do this, one of the easiest is by measuring back from the face of the door to the back edge of the protruding bolt. This measurement can then be transferred onto the rebated area of the door frame, by measuring back from the shoulder of the rebate as shown in Fig 6.

For this mark to be of use, the striker plate will also need to have a corresponding pencil line indicating the position of the edge of the box as shown in Fig 7, and this should be extend to the top of the plate. Place the plate face down onto the frame so that the line on the striker plate lines up with the mark on the door frame, and ensure that the plate is parallel to the edge of the frame. Hold the plate firmly in place, and draw vertical lines to both edges, and remove the plate.

In addition to the two lines that form the rectangular shape of the plate, an additional centre vertical line is also required, so that the frame will look similar to Fig 9.
The rectangular area in the centre marking the position of the box will now need to be cut out (please note that this will be narrower that the width of the plate) using a wood bit equal to the width of the box. Bore a series of holes to the depth of the box along the vertical line, and chisel out the remaining timber up to the guidelines. Next, using a sharp chisel, recess the surrounding area to a depth equal to the thickness of the plate, testing for fit as you progress. When complete, the doorframe should look similar to the illustration Fig 10.
When complete, and a good fit, the plate will need to be fixed in position using the screws provided.
With some types of striker plates, four screws are required rather than two as shown in this tutorial.

The striker plate ready for fixing    The striker plate in place
Useful Resources

Please note that the contents on this page is protected by copyright
© Copyright 2000-2016 The DIY World - All rights reserved
Page 1 2 3 4


The DIY Ad banner